March 4, 2007

Ho Chi Minh City - Hue, Vietnam

We're flying north over the South China Sea and the coastline of central Vietnam looms ahead. Sandy white beaches curve below. As the jet drops lower, I see some frothy spots--about a half dozen whales are breaking the surface. We are too high to tell what species they are. Humpbacks, perhaps? That's a very good omen.

Now the water gives way to brilliant green rice paddies. We have left the clamor of Saigon behind, exchanging it for the genteel atmosphere of Hue (pronounced H'way). It's immediately clear that life moves at a slower pace here in this colonial capital city.

We are here because Kids Without Borders is one of the sponsors of a large conference of NGO's (non-government organizations.) These groups converging in Hue are from all over the United States and all are either founded or run by Vietnamese Americans. Simply put, their purpose is to use their skills and ideas to make life better for children in their native land. Each group brings a specialty: land mine removal, pediatric medicine, education, and so on, there's even a non-profit that makes solar cookstoves! Here I am, thousands of miles from home, yet sitting next to me is a man who grew up on Bainbridge Island. He's working to prevent injuries from unexploded ordnance and mines, a horrific problem that kills kids every year. Small world! Son Michael's food grows cold because he is the eye of the hurricane, meeting, greeting, connecting people. As one man told me "This guy's the real deal."

Before the conference, our little foursome had a chance to explore an historic site -- Thien Mu temple.

It is a stunning piece of architecture that overlooks the indolent Perfume River. Dragon boats and sampans drift by as we stroll the grounds in the humid heat.

Thien Mu is one of the most photographed temples in all of Vietnam, dating back to 1601. Legend has it that a local governor built the pagoda to fulfill a magical old woman's prophecy. She predicted a great leader would one day build a great monument starting a whole new era of prosperity in the country. The 60-foot-tall temple is just one of many significant cultural and historical attractions in Hue.

Recommendation: see the sites by cyclo, a contraption that marries a bicycle to a comfy front seat. You just sit back and let the operator gently pedal you down the street. Cyclos are rapidly becoming a thing of the past in Vietnam, so ride while you can!