Day 2: Hanoi - Haiphong, Vietnam

Monday, March 31, 2008

Twelve hours of sleep can work wonders!

Awakening from a Rumpelstiltskian jet-lag-induced coma, it is early morning and Hanoi is draped in atmospheric mist. My daughter Marah and I feel human again after our long slumber and are eager to explore. Out the door we go, trotting toward a popular body of water nestled in the center of this famous city--Hoan Kiem Lake. Legend has it that way back in the 15th Century, Vietnam's Emperor Le Loi borrowed a magical sword from a golden Tortoise that inhabits these waters. After using the sword to vanquish his enemy, the Emperor returned it to his turtle friend along with his gratitude. The Vietnamese interpret this story to mean that divine intervention can always be counted upon in times of national crises. It is considered good luck to spot a tortoise in the lake, so Marah and I hang out a while, hoping to spot a relative of the elusive Shelled Legend. Alas, our stomachs are rumbling and we decide it is time to breakfast on pho, (pronounced fuh) the native noodle soup we eat regularly in Seattle. It is by far the best pho we have ever had!

Dashing back to the hotel, we are soon rolling toward Hanoi's Thanh Xuan Peace Village with the entire Kids Without Borders gang. Kids Without Borders is a humanitarian organization founded by Son Michael Pham of Sammamish, Washington. Son is a Vietnamese American who fled South Vietnam in 1975 the day it fell to the Communist North. After returning to his homeland decades later, Son Michael founded KWB, which supports youth around the world. Here in Vietnam, we couldn't have a more knowledgable and patient leader. At the Peace Village, our group is warmly welcomed. KWB visits regularly and Son is recognized for building a bridge of awareness from the USA to these needy kids. It is my second visit to this essential facility that rehabilitates and educates children disabled by Agent Orange. Agent Orange, you may recall, is a chemical defoliant used by the US military during the Vietnam War and it is often referred to as the war's saddest legacy. The toxins have been linked to severe mental and physical birth defects. Here, at Peace Village though, there is hope. And smiles! The children are well cared for and happy. I am delighted that many of them remember me from last year! I soon spot an individual who made a special impression on me a year ago--Huong! Huong is a capable young woman although severely restricted by symptoms similar to those of cerebral palsy. She breaks into a huge grin when I approach her. I am so happy to introduce her to my daughter. Huong proudly shows me how she can copy letters in the Vietnamese alphabet. Painstakingly, her pencil slowly reproduces a letter in her workbook. She flashes a huge grin when I praise her accomplishment. Even though she cannot talk and also knows little if any English, we have no problem communicating. Our group enjoys playing with the kids, taking pictures, and distributing toys and treats. It's a place that's hard to leave. As the children wave goodbye, I think of Huong and her struggle. I am saddened by her physical challenges, but feel happy she is here, getting the therapy and vocational training she so desperately needs. Because of the Peace Village, and the support of organizations like Kids Without Borders, beautiful Vietnamese youngsters like Huong have a future.

For more information go to www.kidswithnoborders.org

Marah's turn:
After waking up from my Sleeping Beauty-esque slumber, I realize that I am truly in Vietnam...and that I'm starving. My mom is already awake, and we get dressed and go into town, seeking some delicious pho. We make a stop at the legendary lake and took some neato pictures. We find some pho, and are all excited to eat it and then our graceful waitress spills an enormous cup of mango juice all over our fresh clothes. It was brilliant. After the two of us got cleaned up and finished our soup, we went back to the hotel and left for the Thanh Xuan Peace Village. The children there are so amazing, so sweet and gentle. Meeting them and being given the opportunity to spend some time with them was an absolute delight. I wish I could of hung out more with the kids, but the lack of time and fact that I'm taking many pictures made it difficult. I hope to come back soon and stay longer to help out more. After leaving the Peace Village the group went to the "Hanoi Hilton," the prison where during the Vietnam war POWs were held and tortured. It was bone chilling at times, seeing the guillotine and reading about survivors' stories. It gave me a whole new respect for John McCain, who was held there for five years. Leaving the Hanoi Hilton marks the end of the group's stay in Hanoi, and we're headed to Haiphong.